Planting

Do it right the first time and your plant will take hold and grow lustily. Planted improperly, it may take years to get off and going; it may die. Remember, it is much better to plant too high than too deeply.

PREPARATION
Rhododendrons are not deeply rooted but have very fine shallow roots. After many years a few very coarse tap roots are formed. The soil should be amended to a depth of about 18" and a diameter of about 3 feet. Combine this soil with about 50% peat or leaf-based compost, more if your soil is a dense clay. Mix this thoroughly with your existing soil.


Figure 1

ROOTBALL PREPARATION
Remove the plant from its container making sure the rootball is not exposed to sunlight. If the plant is balled and burlapped, carefully untie the burlap as you will be moving the plant to its site on the burlap and then pulling the burlap out from underneath rootball when the plant is in its final position. As container grown plants are frequently potbound it is very important to loosen the rootball by removing the outer inch or so on the sides and bottom. You can do this with a small garden hand fork. An easier way is to simply take 2-3 pie-shaped wedges out of the rootball (see Figure #1). This will force the roots to extend out into your prepared soil; if they stay in their original ball the plant will surely die.

Figure 2

PLANTING
As mentioned it is better to plant your rhododendron/azalea too high than too deep. The top of the rootball should not be covered with soil, only the sides (see Figure #2). Do not stamp down the earth with your feet after planting. Water the soil gently until the soil settles in around the rootball. As you can see in Figure #2, you will have planted in a slightly raised bed.

 MULCHING
Apply 2 - 3" of mulch after planting (see Fig. #2). This will keep the roots suitably cool and the moisture level of the soil more uniform. It will also keep weeds suppressed and will rot down to supply the plant with a food source. Good sources of mulch are pine bark mulch, pine needles, oak or beech leaves (kept in place with a few branches as they will blow away) or wood chips. Your plant should be mulched yearly in mid-April until it becomes quite old and grows to shade its own roots and self - mulches with its own leaves.

FERTILIZING
Rhododendrons are very light feeders. A very tight handful of 6-12-12 spread evenly over the mulch and away from the trunk is sufficient the first few years until established. It should be unnecessary thereafter. More rhododendrons are damaged by fertilizing than any other act - better none than the wrong sort or too much. Deciduous azaleas will require a regular fertilizing after bloom yearly to promote good growth, 6-12-12 is best. Never use aluminum sulphate on or near rhododendrons or azaleas - it is extremely toxic to them.